How to Run Pipes Through Walls and Floors for DIY Plumbing Work
If you’re DIY-er operating pipes, we’ll assist you in guiding your plumbing wall through the most challenging areas.
The pipes that supply water to toilets, showers, faucets and other fixtures are usually concealed behind walls or beneath flooring, which requires careful planning to ensure proper installation. After creating a plan for the new plumbing, developing an approach to operating the pipes is essential. If it’s a brand-new construction or addition in which the framing is visible, it’s easy. However, if you’re remodelling your bath or kitchen area, you must be ready to alter the design once you’ve removed the flooring and wall covering.
Replacing the finished surface following plumbers (especially wall patching) typically takes a few days. Repairing large wall patches (or even replacing the entire wall) requires a bit longer than a smaller patch, so make sure you have ample space for work.
After you have opened the drain and vent lines, connecting the supply, usually along the drain waste vent (DWV) pipes, is quite simple. Before learning about your carpentry basics, understand your home’s design and ensure you know how to put in a pipe. It’s recommended to get your plans approved by your municipal building inspector to ensure they comply with the plumbing code.
How to Run Pipes Through Walls and Floors
Every home renovation, expansion, or construction requiring plumbing typically involves running pipes. Learn how to navigate the tricky places on walls and floors with these tips.
1. Assess and Remove the Wall
If you plan to install an additional stack, look at the framing. A toilet installation requires a drain of 3 inches and can be installed only if the wall is constructed of 2x6s or more (a 2-inch pipe can be installed through a wall of 2×4). Take the wall’s surface and move it to the ceiling.
2. Prep for New Pipe
Create a hole that allows extra room in the newly installed pipe. For a 3-inch pipe, make use of the drill and a reciprocating saw to make a hole of 4 1/4 inches wide by 10 inches between the lower plate of the room you’re working in and on top of that room beneath. Cut off a 10-inch by 2 feet section of flooring.
3. Assemble and Place Drainpipe
Install the fittings that are approved onto the top part of your Drainpipe. Make sure they are facing the correct direction. The Drainpipe should be larger than what is needed. It is possible to cut it down to size from below. The pipe is slipped down the hole.
4. Run the Vent
It is possible to make an opening in the wall either above or below the floor to direct the vent pipe up or down. In the attic area, connecting the vent to join one existing vent is possible. If you need help, you can drill through the ceiling in the attic and have the roofer put in an attic roof jack to connect your vent pipe.
5. Guide and Attach Pipes
Secure the Drainpipe using straps. Make a smaller hole in the ceiling to accommodate your vent pipe. A hole will suffice for a 1 1/2-inch vent pipe that’s 2 1/2 inches. The vent pipe is guided up through the hole to the attic or room above, then slid its lower part into the fitting near the floor.
Drainpipes that run through joists call for a meticulous job. The holes must be in an exact horizontal line along the floor. They must be ascending or descending so that the pipe slopes 1/4 inch for each foot. (If the joists are 16 inches in diameter and pipes are running across them at an angle of right, the holes are different in height by around 3/8 inches.)
Vent pipes can be at a level, but certain codes require some slope towards the primary drain. Every drain line must be sloped. For a precise slope, mark a level line on the studs, and then measure 1/4-inch for each running foot. Also, codes could require fireproof caulk in walls.
6. How to Stabilize and Protect Pipes
Put pipes through the holes in the middle of framing members when you can. Line pipes with felt or wood shims to prevent them from shaking in the hole. Slide a shim underneath the pipe, then tap it until it is securely in place but not too tight to allow expansion. If you require notches, make them as tiny as possible so they don’t weaken the framing component. Metal plates to shield the pipes against nails.
7. Tips for Running Pipe Through a Floor
The passage of drainpipes through joists calls for a meticulous job. The holes must be in an exact line across the floor. They must be able to ascend or descend so that the pipe slopes 1/4 inch for each foot. (If the joists are 16 inches in diameter and pipes are running across them at an angle of right, the holes must differ in height by 3/8 inches.)
8. Tips for Running Pipe Through a Wall
Vent pipes may run in a straight line. However, certain codes require an incline towards the primary drain. Drain lines should be sloped. To determine a slope precisely, draw a level line on the studs and then measure 1/4-inch for each running foot. Also, codes could require fireproof caulking on walls.